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February 15th

Mr. Groundhog has predicted an early spring. Well, I'm not so sure about that, but here at K&W we're very optimistic, which means our workshops must go on! They are held every Saturday at 10 a.m. in March and April, and they are always FREE!! There is no pre–registration required. So come on into the greenhouse, where we make our own spring.

Saturday, March 1st: "Growing It Green"

No, we haven't discovered money seeds . But we are going to show you how to grow your own flowers and vegetables from seed--which can save you a lot of green!!

Saturday, March 8th: "As Easy as 1,2,3,4"

Lawn care shouldn't be difficult and it shouldn't cost you a fortune. We are going to give all the information you need to grow a healthy and affordable lawn in four easy steps.

Saturday, March 15th: "Home Orchard"

Growing your own food can be both rewarding and satisfying. Having a home orchard can also be easy and fun. We'll give you all the tips to make your orchard successful.

Saturday, March 22nd: "Spring Event"

Our annual Spring event is here once again. Another fantastic year of games, with face painting and animals. There is so much to do! It's all inside and it's all FREE!!

Saturday, March 29th: "Shrubs of 2008"

Every year there are new and exciting shrubs that we introduce you to. This year is no exception. See what's new before anyone else.

Saturday, April 5th: "Attracting Bluebirds"

Everyone loves bluebirds, but attracting them can be a bit of a trick. We'll run through all the things that will make your backyard the hottest bluebird hangout on the block.

Saturday, April 12th: "Healthy Plants"

Keeping our trees healthy and happy is important to us. Let Randy Ryder from Bayer give you all the hard facts on keeping trees, lawns, and roses healthy. We will also have an emerald ash borer update.

Saturday, April 19th: "Perennials 101"

Perennials are a good investment, but only if they live. Our perennial manager is going to give you some great fool-proof perennials for both sun and shade; ones that anyone can grow successfully.

Saturday, April 26th: "Annuals of 2008"

Not only will you get a first peek at the new annuals of the year, but we'll also tell you what to do with them. Some may grow better in baskets, while others will make a great border in your yard. Come and see what's new and exciting this year!

Many palms are slow-growing, and consequently, large specimens are often expensive. But don't be deterred from growing palms; if you provide the right conditions, even small plants will gradually become impressive specimens.

Not all palms grow large, and many are compact enough for a tabletop. Some are even small enough to use in a bottle garden while young.

The most common mistake is to regard all palms as lovers of hot sunshine and desert-dry air. They often have to cope with both in countries where they grow outdoors, but as houseplants you want them to remain in good condition with unblemished leaves.

• Keep cool in winter, but not less than 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Keep out of direct sunshine unless you know that your palm revels in the sun (a few do).
• Use a good potting soil and ensure that the drainage is good.
• Repot only when it is absolutely essential, as palms dislike root disturbance. Always ensure that the new soil is firmly compacted if you do repot.
• Water liberally in spring and summer, sparingly in winter.
• Mist the plants frequently with water and sponge the leaves occasionally with water.
• Do not use an aerosol leaf shine.

A great way to shake off the winter blues and get a jump on spring is to start plants from seed indoors. It's not only fun and easy to do but also rewarding, since it allows home gardeners the opportunity to grow plant varieties that may not be available from local plant growers. The opportunities are endless with many unique varieties of flowers, vegetables, and even ornamental vines available in seed form.

To get started, come visit our seed department. Once you have made your selections, look on the back of the packet for basic information such as germination time and an estimate of how long to grow the plant indoors before transplanting into the garden. Find out the average safe date for transplanting your plant in our area, and then count backwards to find out how early you can start your seeds. If you have a greenhouse or cold frame to transplant into, adjust accordingly.

The best containers to use are shallow seed starting trays with covers like Planters' Pride Grower Starter Kits. Another option is to use peat or fiber pots, but plastic or clay pots will do just fine in a pinch. If you are reusing containers from a previous growing season, wash them with a solution of one part household bleach to nine parts water to sterilize them. This helps prevent the transfer of disease or fungus.

For good germination results, fill your containers with a light soil mix that has good drainage and moisture retention properties. Do not use garden soil. Make sure to wet your soil mix and allow it to drain before sowing the seeds into your containers.

Find a warm location in your home with plenty of light, or an area where you can mount a light above the plants. Most plants only need moisture and warmth to germinate, but will need the light to grow once they sprout leaves. Plain fluorescent light bulbs are fine when starting seeds but consider using at least one "grow light" tube if you are going to keep the plants under lights for an extended time (if you are trying to get full-sized plants by transplant time, you'll need a grow light or a very bright window). Remember that seedlings will quickly become weak and leggy plants if they don't receive enough light.

Seeds generally need a soil temperature above 65º to germinate. If you have trouble maintaining that temperature, consider using a heating mat. Covering your containers with plastic will help hold in moisture and create a humid environment that encourages the seed to germinate. That's why covered seed starting trays are the easiest containers to use.

Make sure your plants don't get too hot under the plastic, especially if you have the containers in a sunny area or under a warm light. Remove the plastic as soon as you see any signs of germination. Keep the soil mix evenly moist, and use lukewarm water if possible. Water very gently to avoid disturbing the tender seedlings.

When your seed germinates, it will send up a sprout with two seed leaves called cotyledons. After that, true leaves will follow. Begin feeding your seedlings weekly with a half-strength solution of fertilizer (ask us which is best for what you are growing) when the first true leaves develop. Continue feeding the seedlings until they are ready to be transplanted. The plants will be ready when the entire root ball is held together by the plant roots.

Make sure to harden off your plants before transplanting them into the garden. "Hardening off" is the process of acclimating plants to the light, humidity, and temperatures found outdoors. Start by placing your seedling containers outdoors in a shaded, sheltered location for a couple of hours per day. Gradually increase the time spent outside by an hour each day for at least a week before transplanting the seedling. With the exception of tomatoes, plant the seedlings at the same level they were grown in their pot. Tomatoes can be buried deeper than they grew in the pot--they will grow roots from the buried portion of the stem.

After transplanting, if your neighbors ask where you bought all those wonderful plants, just tell them, "They're truly homegrown!"